Syria.

I cannot lie and say that the situation in Syria is not dangerous. It is. And it has become something of a reality for us students to hear the bombs going off at night. But tonight they have worsened. As one bomb after another went off in the distant, like the sound of distant thunder approaching, we looked at each other and realized with some small ounce of fear that we are very close to this war. We heard the boys rushing up the stairs past our open door to our apartment, heading for the staircase that leads to the rooftop. We followed and for the first time for the past several nights we attempted to look for any sign of the conflict on the horizon. After realizing that Syria lies in a different direction than we thought, we correctly turned our gazes to the North, to the border city of Daraa. Daraa is currently the city being fought over by the opposition and the Syrian government. But with the recent arms being sent over from Russia, the case for the opposition doesn't look hopeful. In fact, some people are saying that the government plans to massacre the entire city. That's upwards of 90,000 people. That is the estimated amount that has been killed in the past two years. And some expect that same number to now double because of this one fight. And a fight it will be. This is the city where the revolution began. It is the city were the protests started when around a dozen children wrote anti-government slogans on a wall and were arrested for it. People protested and some were killed in the streets. It is a symbol for the revolution. And it is very close to Jordan.

Today, we had intended to go to the border crossing once more, but this time to enter it, to be able to go as far as possible without actually crossing the border. We weren't allowed because of the recent battle that has begun. Some of the towns that are near the border have actually been evacuated for the first time, ever. Our professors said they heard that American military men had rolled through the city we are in, Irbid, around 8 pm tonight. Training exercises that have been planned for months began today in Jordan by the US military.

We are very safe where we are. The bombs are farther than I let on. But when we went onto the roof and saw the smoke billowing through the wind, we were startled at how real this is all becoming. Reading about a civil war for 2 years is one thing - seeing it with my own two eyes is another. I know what is happening a few miles north of us. But seeing a small part of the aftermath of bombs being dropped on people's homes with the intent of killing those inside, makes it so much more distressing and yes, terrifying. But it is an experience I wouldn't pass up. I am living through history right now. I am seeing refugees in cities, towns, and camps. I am learning how the borders may be closing soon, trapping those who want to flee inside the country that is killing them. I am seeing the economic burden it has caused on the country, and knowing not enough is being done to help make right this problem. I wish I could do more but I am just a student, a learner. And I am with people who also are so eager to learn. And in the end, what better way to learn than with reality. 

A Castle, A Colosseum, and the Capital

On Saturday we ventured out on our first weekend excursion. This was a one day trip to Amman, the capital of Jordan, and to Ajloun and Jerash. Ajloun is an ancient castle that was built during the crusades in 1184 and it sits on top of the highest peak in the area, which is not only very hilly but also is surrounded by a valley.

We only spent about 45 minutes there because basically all their is to do is climb through the castle to get to the top where there was an incredible view of the surrounding area. There were mountains on all sides and more mountains behind those mountains. Definitely a good place to keep a lookout for approaching armies all those centuries ago. Inside, there was a small museum with ancient artifacts. They consisted mostly of bowls and jugs but there were a few treasures, including totally intact colored glasses and a cross from the crusades. There were also several mosaics that had survived the years, minus some weathering around the edges. The inside of the castle was slippery due to all the wear the rocks have gotten throughout the years (centuries I should say). And the rocks are not suitable for quick climbing. They are uneven shapes and sizes. I thought humans were tinier back then? People must have slipped or they must have owned better shoes than me.

This was my second encounter with an old castle, my first being Blarney Castle in Ireland, built in the 1400s. But nonetheless, it was very exciting. Castles are great. Especially in the Jordanian heat. Not surprisingly, the castle was very cool inside, the heat trapped by the rocks.

We went to our first gift shop and of course had to buy several things, including fun hats to keep the sun out of our eyes. It made us look more like an American tourist more so than anything else, but it was worth the 3 dinar I paid for it.

After we were done, we hopped back on the bus to drive to our next destination: Jerash. We were on a tight time schedule and despite the hills and small gaps between the cars on either side of the road, our bus flew. Like I've said before: if you can drive in Jordan, you can drive anywhere. You think the bus won't fit? Oh it can. Always. And I haven't seen an accident yet between any two vehicles here. Anyway, so we're driving and the city is so cool. It is like something out of a movie where people are chasing each other in cars of motorcycles or something. Its just alleyways and curving streets leading in different directions and hills and people walking everywhere. And the coolest part was that the houses are built into the hills.

So Jerash is an ancient Greco-Roman city. This was my first encounter with a site from ancient history and I loved everything about it (except the heat of midday, but at least my new sun hat came in handy). And to be honest, it is still in great shape seeing that it was built sometime before 300 B.C. and has lived through several earthquakes. Alexander the Great has walked where I walked. That is crazy.




The ruins are beautiful. There is a huge archway that is preserved and the other large part to the ruins is the amphitheater. It is HUGE. I've never seen something so large. We climbed to the top and we could see everything. People actually climbed this to watch theatre or some other form of entertainment. It was quite a climb if I do say so. But so worth it.

Again, we got back on the bus after a quick rest, some water and some shade. We were making our way to Amman. Amman is unlike the rest of the country. It is very modern and the shops are more westernized and most things for that matter.  We went firstly to the top which is huge and has many stores and restaurants us Americans love dearly like H&M and Chile's and Pinkberry and the best of all, Starbucks. I treated myself to a grande caramel chocolate chip frappacino with a chocolate chip cookie on the side and it was just what I wanted. It was like dessert in a coffee. Everything in the stores was expensive since it was Amman and so we didn't buy anything but we set out to explore the city a bit by bus. They took us past the US Embassy which was very interesting. It is heavily armed with men stationed in jeep-like vehicles pointing there guns to everyone driving by. They even have signs saying you can't take pictures. It was sort of bizarre. But I guess this is a crazy time over here and so they need to be careful? I have no idea. It was a huge building and surrounded by a large gate and fence so I couldn't see much besides plenty of massive satellite dishes on the roof.


After the mall, we changed pace a little and visited a mosque. It is one of the largest in the country and holds an original letter written by the Prophet Muhammed to some important figure in history asking for peace. There was also one of his hairs that was held by tweezers and magnified  but I still had trouble seeing it. And there was also an offspring of the tree he apparently used to sit under. It was fascinating. Whether you believe it or not is one thing but the idea of it is a whole other. What it means to others is fascinating. We were allowed inside the mosque, but we had to cover our hair, which I didn't mind actually. I did it out of respect, no questions asked (I didn't have a choice if I wanted to enter) but it didn't cross my mind to question it.

Being inside the mosque was very beautiful. And most of all it was peaceful. One of the most peaceful places I have experienced so far in life. We were there as the Call to Prayer began as well and something my professor had told me earlier came true: that no matter what you believe or how strongly, the call to prayer resonated through you when you are inside the area from which it is being projected. It was unbelievable  It just fills you with good. And brings you closer to God almost, whatever one you believe in. It was a beautiful moment and I am glad I got to witness it.

After we went to a very famous street called Rainbow Street. it is very Western with all its shops and cafes. It even had a Nestle Toll House store. And when we began to drive away towards the restaurant we would eat dinner at, I was in awe at the sight of the outskirts of Amman where the houses are stacked into the hill, more so than in Ajloun. It was unbelievable! Just house after house, up and down the rolling hills.

For dinner we ate at this lavish restaurant that had fountains and tapestries hanging from the ceiling and was huge! So much larger than restaurants at home. The grilled chicken I got was fantastic as was the salad. It was mostly made up of cucumbers and tomatoes like many of the salads here and is drizzled with lemon it tasted like. Either way, it was just so healthy and fresh, like everything here. And I was craving watermelon, and just like that, they bring it out on huge platters. It is melon season here I've been told and I could not be more excited. Watermelon here is some of the best I've ever had.

This was a great start to our trips. This coming weekend: Aqaba, Petra, and Wadi Rum and I am so very excited.

(Almost) Crossing borders

Yesterday was a life changing day for me. My inner political scientist teared up as I realized that we were approaching the border to Syria.

Let me start at the beginning. Yesterday at 5 pm we headed out to visit the nearby town of Ramtha which is farther north than where we are. My professors had never been before and so we set out to check out the town and the souk there. I had looked up an article prior to going and someone was quoted as saying the town was "a ghost town." And that it was. We pulled in with our bus and there was hardly anyone around. It was so unlike the souk in Irbid where people are bustling around everywhere constantly. We got off the bus and were brought to a chocolate and candy shop that is owned by a friend of our guide, Ahmad. We enter the store and there are just bright colors everywhere! And so many different kinds of chocolate - and they were all chocolate from Syria! It was beautiful. I even splurged and bought a wooden box that came form Syria to fill with chocolate.

The city of Ramtha is predominantly Syrian to begin with, to my knowledge. But since the civil war began inside Syria, more have flocked to this city because it borders their old country. You could sense the change in the atmosphere almost. People stared more than they usually do in Irbid. They are most likely unused to our Western features and light skin. Children saw our cameras and wanted pictures. It's the simple things for these children who may or may not have lost everything to come here just to survive. They yell to us: "Soora soora!" Picture picture!  Some of us oblige, but typical me I want to but I'm already tagging along as it is and so my professor tells me to hurry up so that I'm not left behind. We walk the streets some more but don't enter any of the shops. We just look for about 20 minutes and then hop back onto the bus to head out to our next destination.

Muhammad turns around from the front of the bus and tells us we are going to the highest point in Ramtha so we can look out around us. We begin to drive and he turns around again to surprise with the comment that we are 2 kilometers away from the Syrian border and getting closer. That is about 1.2 miles. Now it is 1 mile. And now less. Us students begin to freak out. A majority of us are international relations majors and all of us have a focus of some sort in the Middle East. Personally, I have been following Syria this entire year in depth. I have discussed it in all my classes. It was so present in my studies but I was no where near close to understanding the real life feeling of the war. Until we drove up to the border crossing - the furthest we could go that day. We were granted special permission for this Monday to enter the border crossing and be as close as we can be to Syria without crossing the border. It was an unreal experience to say the least. My heart clenched and it was unreal for me to be so close to the conflict. A couple hundred yards in front of me lay the civil war that had been the bulk of my studies for the past 4 months. I found ways to tie every paper I wrote back to the conflict. I researched the history, the current situation, the people, the international effects, the refugees. Everything. And I am here. Just a few more feet and I would potentially be able to see it with my own two eyes. I don't have another word to use besides unreal. It took my breath away  to know how close I am. I thought I have been close, but yesterday I was almost there. I wonder who is sitting, waiting on the other side. How many people are trying to cross? How different is life when separated by a border? How do those people feel?

Since we couldn't go any further in that direction, we headed back the way we came and we thought we were heading back to the university. Our hearts were heavy and we were all feeling something we have never felt before when it comes to current events in this region - reality. It was a sobering experience for some reason. But not as much as when we stopped outside of a gated area that we had no clue what the purpose was. And then we were told it was a refugee camp behind the walls. We were stunned. I could not believe we would go to the border and visit a camp all in one day. It was an experience of a lifetime and one of the greatest days of my life as a future political scientist. We needed to get permission from the guards first and so our fantastic guide, Ahmad came to the rescue and got us into the camp on the one condition that we wouldn't take pictures. So we drive in slowly - and no one is around. It was eery. We look to our left and it turns out that this area was once a factory, a textile mill. And apparently there are 3000 refugees being housed in each factory. Thousands of people and there was no sign of life anywhere. We drove a little farther down and there was one apartment buidling and we spotted 2 young men, a few children, a few women, 2 old men, and a couple security guards. There were UNHCR tents and UN stickers plastered on all the buildings. Life was at a standstill for these people. They aren't allowed to leave, as is the case with many refugee camps. They are only allowed to leave if accompanied by a Jordanian and must return.

As my first time in a refugee camp, I was a little surprised  For one, I expected to see a bustling scene with people walking around and hanging out. There isn't work or shopping to be done. But instead there was silence. And the second thing I was surprised about, and later felt that I had limited myself intellectually, was the fact that this wasn't a camp with tents. Many of the camps I researched were filled with tents. I had not heard of something like this. I am glad I witnessed it however to expand my knowledge of the refugee situation. This camp was better off than most as well. Unlike the Zaatari camp, the largest in Jordan, where everyone lives in tents and life is harsh, and for some just unlivable. I thought to myself after we left: would I rather live alone with my family in a tent in a crowded, unsafe camp? Or would I want to live in a safer camp but crammed into one area with thousands of others? Many don't have a choice but I think I would choose tent life. I would rather have some privacy with my family than none at all.

Yesterday was an experience-filled day and I feel fortunate that I am able to witness this firsthand. I came to Jordan at an opportune time to study this conflict. This is a critical time in the Middle East and I am able to witness pieces of it. And at the end of the day, I have to acknowledge how blessed I am to have this opportunity to come to Jordan and to be able to return to my country when recently hundreds of thousand are not able to return to theirs. And I am blessed that I am able to get back on a bus to take be back to the beauty and safety that is this university. It is a stark contrast to the lives of many who live only dozens of miles north in the country of Syria, and even for those migrated here in hopes of a better life, but still find that life is a challenge. It is an eye-opening experience  that we cannot take lightly. But I am thankful for the opportunity to be critically aware of a situation that is wrecking havoc in the region I have come to love in only a few short weeks. 

Street Art

This is the first sign of street art I've seen in my two weeks so far here in Jordan and I was thrilled when I saw it. It was in an alley way in Irbid that we just so happened to pass by. I love street art. It fascinates me. It appears from a secret world of secret people who are trying to send some message. Plus, this piece looks so much like the street artist Banksy's pieces. I saw it out of the corner of my eye and I had to stop and take a picture:

I can cook?

Hellllllo again. This week has been busy but what else is new? I have just finished my first 300 word essay in Arabic about the Syrian refugees in Jordan. I consider that quite an accomplishment and I am very proud of myself! And for once, we did not have much other homework tonight so my roommate Vanessa and I decided to watch my favorite movie: Tangled. It is life-changing! Just ask anyone who has seen it and don't listen to anyone who hasn't!

Anyway, prior to watching the movie, we went to the souk again! It was a busy time of day - we went at 3 pm. But we were only there for about an hour and a half and a girl can do some damage to her wallet in that short amount of time. It gave me the opportunity to purchase more scarves. Now, Jordan and other countries in the Middle East are scarf heavens because many women wear the hijab here. Therefore, they wear scarves to cover their hair and neck every day. Lucky for me, this means there are entire stores dedicated to only scarves. HEAVEN. And even better, they usually cost about 2-3 JD which is about $3-4 in the US. I can deal with that price. I am already planning on buying in bulk and bringing an entire suitcase back with me. Okay, that's a bit much, but when I have already purchased 5... who knows what will happen. No complaints over here though.

The clock tower in the center of the souk.

We also went back to the produce section of the souk to buy some fresh veggies for our planned stir fry the girls and I were planning on making for dinner. I purchased 2 peppers and I paid 20 piastras (equivalent to cents) total. I questioned it as soon as I heard it. "Piastras?" I asked. "No, dinars" another boy joked.  Life is good here when you only have to pay a fraction of a dollar for fresh fruit and veggies. I also tried a Jordanian slushy and my first response was "mmm sugar". They are very good here, perhaps more flavorful than the slush puppies I purchased from the beach every year as a kid (and still do)! Again, only 20 piastras.

It is also just very enjoyable to walk around the souk where so many people are all the time. On the way there I brought up how I always see many adults out during the day, whether it be women or men. And after some discussion, we came to the conclusion that young women and men, especially with degrees cannot find jobs. It is a terrible problem in the Middle East. It was a factor in several of the Arab Spring Revolutions. And we think we have it bad.

Speaking of education, there is one stereotype that I am very excited to claim as false: women are not educated in the Middle East. False. Women are just as educated, if not more. This is because men work and find a job because supporting your family or yourself is more important than an education for many men. But many women are in fact educated at the higher levels. The University of Science and Technology that we attend has more women than men, just like Conn does! Except this is a university for engineering, medicine, computers, pharmaceutical, and linguistics, among other subjects. It is safe to say that these are the smartest students - and women - in Jordan for the most part.

Anyway, in case anyone was wondering, I used the peppers in our stir fry and cooked I think for the first time in my life. And was successful. Just some basic ingredients of fresh peppers, broccoli, carrots, onion, and garlic with a little bit of olive oil (also their secret to long lives here) and it was actually pretty good. I rewarded myself with a large spoonful (or many) of Nutella. Which comes in a glass jar. Oh, Jordan.

It is 11:41 here. Perhaps I will go to bed early tonight. Jordanians do not sleep and I seem to have somehow caught on to that habit, going to bed anytime between 2 and 4 am every night. I don't know how they do it! Or right, their Turkish coffee and exceptionally strong tea here. Caffeine, caffeine, caffeine is their secret I suppose. 

Goat Kebab Barbecue

This afternoon, we spent time with our new Jordanian friend, who we call Q (it is easier than his Arabic name). His house is just as lovely as Waed's and his family was very inviting also. 

Instead of lamb, though, we had barbecued GOAT. That's right, within 24 hours I have eaten two meats I would have never at home. Do they even sell either of those at our local Stop & Shop? And this goat was fantastic. Wow. It was served on pita bread and a salad and it was so enjoyable! We just sat around and talked and ate - for 3 hours. 3 non-stop hours of eating lots of meat, meat, and more meat. Good thing I liked it! And I am a very picky eater who won't even eat hamburgers back home. Who am I?

After we ate our large meal, we ate a delicious cake with toasted almonds. And since it was Q's birthday yesterday, we celebrated with him and his family. But the candles on the cake were no ordinary candles, they were thick, half a foot-long sparklers. That makes candles seem so lame now. I don't even know if those are legal in the states though...? 

Anyway, we had a great time and it is nice to know local people who are so willing to do anything for you and help you out in any way. It is very comforting.

A Delicious Meal, a Beautiful View, and a Wise Man to Create the Perfect Evening

So yesterday was an awesome day. We started off the day by sleeping in as laste as our hearts desired and did nothing for the rest of the afternoon. As 7 pm approached, we boarded the bus to venture out to my Professor Waed's family's house. It sits on top of a hill called Mother of the Wind because it is the highest point in the city of Irbid and it is very windy, obviously. First off, her house is gorgeous - fancy moldings and furniture, ornate decorations and most importantly, a lovely family to fill it.

Her family welcomed us students into their homes right away and fed us one of the greatest meals we will have on this entire trip. It is Mansaf and it is the national dish of Jordan. It is comprised of lamb, rice, and a cooked yogurt mixed with other things. Now, lamb is not something that is in my diet a lot, if ever. I've only had one experience with it when I was ten years old when I received my First Communion and I have not had it since. I thought I would never eat it again but here I am. And it was magical. I did not put the yogurt on top due to my lactose-intolerance, sadly, but it was yummy nonetheless. They also feed us a proportion larger enough for 5+. There is no holding back here with food. At dinner professor Muhammed's father sat with us and talked to us about his time in Germany. He told us how the Germans are the greatest Europeans (hello that's where I come from) and how when they eat, they clean their plates. And it reminded me perfectly of my family and our "clean plate club"and not letting any food go to waste. It was a nice moment to be reminded of my family in a country that could not be any different from where I come from, but to have a Palestinian/Jordanian man feel so connected with Germany after living there for 20 years, a place where both of my great-grandparents originated from.

After dinner we had another very special experience: we were able to relax and hangout in none other than a UNHCR tent. Yes, that's right, a tent given out by the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees to the Syrian refugees, who sell their extra tents to the average Jordanian for money. So last night, we relaxed and drank tea while sitting on pillows inside a tent. It is a very ironic situation that we could enjoy ourselves so casually and comfortably while many refugees who live in the tents elsewhere are living lives under harsh conditions.

On a side note, the coffee here is only a few drops yet it is the strongest cup you'll ever drink (or that i've had so far in my life). And the tea is also different. They use a different part of the leaf here, the top which is stronger and so the tea tastest different. So I will be bringing some boxes home with me for all you tea lovers to try. They also put mint leaves and sugar in it to flavor it and it is so tasty. Ah!

So after we enjoyed our time inside the tent, we stood outside and looked out over the entire city of Irbid. No one even needed to speak in order to enjoy ourselves. Just being able to witness such an amazing view was enough. We were served watermelon for dessert (they serve fruit for dessert here a lot it seems, crazy right? Who needs sweets when you have fresh, organic watermelon).

However, suddenly we heard gunshots from the street and us students were so startled. Our faces definitely showed our shock, which led to Waed's family explaining that at weddings, people shoot gunshots into the air repeatedly as a way of celebration. It is a very interesting part of their culture, one could say. One part that I don't necessarily want to be around. I think that was the first time I've ever been around a gun shot. Many firsts here in Jordan! So we moved our chairs closer to the wall and away from the open area where Waed's wise father sat down with us and told us about life and the world, telling stories of people who live simple lives with little money and yet are very happy. Or how if we buy one coke here, it hurts someone somewhere else who needs to work to make the goods we want. He said at one point that there is a crime attached to every good we purchase because of the effects it has on those who have to make it. Later he told us how humans are the only species to kill for fun. And how we waste our health to make money, to put towards our health. So why not just focus on the basics of what we need in life to begin with? Food, water, family. He was very inspiring. He finished off the night by reciting a poer my Chaucer in Middle English. As a native English speaker I cannot even do that, and he did it without hesitation. He is a very intelligent and worldly man.

It is safe to say that it was a very memorable night here in Jordan with great friends, family and food. This trip would not be the same if not for my amazing two prfoessors, Waed and Muhammed.