(Almost) Crossing borders

Yesterday was a life changing day for me. My inner political scientist teared up as I realized that we were approaching the border to Syria.

Let me start at the beginning. Yesterday at 5 pm we headed out to visit the nearby town of Ramtha which is farther north than where we are. My professors had never been before and so we set out to check out the town and the souk there. I had looked up an article prior to going and someone was quoted as saying the town was "a ghost town." And that it was. We pulled in with our bus and there was hardly anyone around. It was so unlike the souk in Irbid where people are bustling around everywhere constantly. We got off the bus and were brought to a chocolate and candy shop that is owned by a friend of our guide, Ahmad. We enter the store and there are just bright colors everywhere! And so many different kinds of chocolate - and they were all chocolate from Syria! It was beautiful. I even splurged and bought a wooden box that came form Syria to fill with chocolate.

The city of Ramtha is predominantly Syrian to begin with, to my knowledge. But since the civil war began inside Syria, more have flocked to this city because it borders their old country. You could sense the change in the atmosphere almost. People stared more than they usually do in Irbid. They are most likely unused to our Western features and light skin. Children saw our cameras and wanted pictures. It's the simple things for these children who may or may not have lost everything to come here just to survive. They yell to us: "Soora soora!" Picture picture!  Some of us oblige, but typical me I want to but I'm already tagging along as it is and so my professor tells me to hurry up so that I'm not left behind. We walk the streets some more but don't enter any of the shops. We just look for about 20 minutes and then hop back onto the bus to head out to our next destination.

Muhammad turns around from the front of the bus and tells us we are going to the highest point in Ramtha so we can look out around us. We begin to drive and he turns around again to surprise with the comment that we are 2 kilometers away from the Syrian border and getting closer. That is about 1.2 miles. Now it is 1 mile. And now less. Us students begin to freak out. A majority of us are international relations majors and all of us have a focus of some sort in the Middle East. Personally, I have been following Syria this entire year in depth. I have discussed it in all my classes. It was so present in my studies but I was no where near close to understanding the real life feeling of the war. Until we drove up to the border crossing - the furthest we could go that day. We were granted special permission for this Monday to enter the border crossing and be as close as we can be to Syria without crossing the border. It was an unreal experience to say the least. My heart clenched and it was unreal for me to be so close to the conflict. A couple hundred yards in front of me lay the civil war that had been the bulk of my studies for the past 4 months. I found ways to tie every paper I wrote back to the conflict. I researched the history, the current situation, the people, the international effects, the refugees. Everything. And I am here. Just a few more feet and I would potentially be able to see it with my own two eyes. I don't have another word to use besides unreal. It took my breath away  to know how close I am. I thought I have been close, but yesterday I was almost there. I wonder who is sitting, waiting on the other side. How many people are trying to cross? How different is life when separated by a border? How do those people feel?

Since we couldn't go any further in that direction, we headed back the way we came and we thought we were heading back to the university. Our hearts were heavy and we were all feeling something we have never felt before when it comes to current events in this region - reality. It was a sobering experience for some reason. But not as much as when we stopped outside of a gated area that we had no clue what the purpose was. And then we were told it was a refugee camp behind the walls. We were stunned. I could not believe we would go to the border and visit a camp all in one day. It was an experience of a lifetime and one of the greatest days of my life as a future political scientist. We needed to get permission from the guards first and so our fantastic guide, Ahmad came to the rescue and got us into the camp on the one condition that we wouldn't take pictures. So we drive in slowly - and no one is around. It was eery. We look to our left and it turns out that this area was once a factory, a textile mill. And apparently there are 3000 refugees being housed in each factory. Thousands of people and there was no sign of life anywhere. We drove a little farther down and there was one apartment buidling and we spotted 2 young men, a few children, a few women, 2 old men, and a couple security guards. There were UNHCR tents and UN stickers plastered on all the buildings. Life was at a standstill for these people. They aren't allowed to leave, as is the case with many refugee camps. They are only allowed to leave if accompanied by a Jordanian and must return.

As my first time in a refugee camp, I was a little surprised  For one, I expected to see a bustling scene with people walking around and hanging out. There isn't work or shopping to be done. But instead there was silence. And the second thing I was surprised about, and later felt that I had limited myself intellectually, was the fact that this wasn't a camp with tents. Many of the camps I researched were filled with tents. I had not heard of something like this. I am glad I witnessed it however to expand my knowledge of the refugee situation. This camp was better off than most as well. Unlike the Zaatari camp, the largest in Jordan, where everyone lives in tents and life is harsh, and for some just unlivable. I thought to myself after we left: would I rather live alone with my family in a tent in a crowded, unsafe camp? Or would I want to live in a safer camp but crammed into one area with thousands of others? Many don't have a choice but I think I would choose tent life. I would rather have some privacy with my family than none at all.

Yesterday was an experience-filled day and I feel fortunate that I am able to witness this firsthand. I came to Jordan at an opportune time to study this conflict. This is a critical time in the Middle East and I am able to witness pieces of it. And at the end of the day, I have to acknowledge how blessed I am to have this opportunity to come to Jordan and to be able to return to my country when recently hundreds of thousand are not able to return to theirs. And I am blessed that I am able to get back on a bus to take be back to the beauty and safety that is this university. It is a stark contrast to the lives of many who live only dozens of miles north in the country of Syria, and even for those migrated here in hopes of a better life, but still find that life is a challenge. It is an eye-opening experience  that we cannot take lightly. But I am thankful for the opportunity to be critically aware of a situation that is wrecking havoc in the region I have come to love in only a few short weeks. 

Street Art

This is the first sign of street art I've seen in my two weeks so far here in Jordan and I was thrilled when I saw it. It was in an alley way in Irbid that we just so happened to pass by. I love street art. It fascinates me. It appears from a secret world of secret people who are trying to send some message. Plus, this piece looks so much like the street artist Banksy's pieces. I saw it out of the corner of my eye and I had to stop and take a picture:

I can cook?

Hellllllo again. This week has been busy but what else is new? I have just finished my first 300 word essay in Arabic about the Syrian refugees in Jordan. I consider that quite an accomplishment and I am very proud of myself! And for once, we did not have much other homework tonight so my roommate Vanessa and I decided to watch my favorite movie: Tangled. It is life-changing! Just ask anyone who has seen it and don't listen to anyone who hasn't!

Anyway, prior to watching the movie, we went to the souk again! It was a busy time of day - we went at 3 pm. But we were only there for about an hour and a half and a girl can do some damage to her wallet in that short amount of time. It gave me the opportunity to purchase more scarves. Now, Jordan and other countries in the Middle East are scarf heavens because many women wear the hijab here. Therefore, they wear scarves to cover their hair and neck every day. Lucky for me, this means there are entire stores dedicated to only scarves. HEAVEN. And even better, they usually cost about 2-3 JD which is about $3-4 in the US. I can deal with that price. I am already planning on buying in bulk and bringing an entire suitcase back with me. Okay, that's a bit much, but when I have already purchased 5... who knows what will happen. No complaints over here though.

The clock tower in the center of the souk.

We also went back to the produce section of the souk to buy some fresh veggies for our planned stir fry the girls and I were planning on making for dinner. I purchased 2 peppers and I paid 20 piastras (equivalent to cents) total. I questioned it as soon as I heard it. "Piastras?" I asked. "No, dinars" another boy joked.  Life is good here when you only have to pay a fraction of a dollar for fresh fruit and veggies. I also tried a Jordanian slushy and my first response was "mmm sugar". They are very good here, perhaps more flavorful than the slush puppies I purchased from the beach every year as a kid (and still do)! Again, only 20 piastras.

It is also just very enjoyable to walk around the souk where so many people are all the time. On the way there I brought up how I always see many adults out during the day, whether it be women or men. And after some discussion, we came to the conclusion that young women and men, especially with degrees cannot find jobs. It is a terrible problem in the Middle East. It was a factor in several of the Arab Spring Revolutions. And we think we have it bad.

Speaking of education, there is one stereotype that I am very excited to claim as false: women are not educated in the Middle East. False. Women are just as educated, if not more. This is because men work and find a job because supporting your family or yourself is more important than an education for many men. But many women are in fact educated at the higher levels. The University of Science and Technology that we attend has more women than men, just like Conn does! Except this is a university for engineering, medicine, computers, pharmaceutical, and linguistics, among other subjects. It is safe to say that these are the smartest students - and women - in Jordan for the most part.

Anyway, in case anyone was wondering, I used the peppers in our stir fry and cooked I think for the first time in my life. And was successful. Just some basic ingredients of fresh peppers, broccoli, carrots, onion, and garlic with a little bit of olive oil (also their secret to long lives here) and it was actually pretty good. I rewarded myself with a large spoonful (or many) of Nutella. Which comes in a glass jar. Oh, Jordan.

It is 11:41 here. Perhaps I will go to bed early tonight. Jordanians do not sleep and I seem to have somehow caught on to that habit, going to bed anytime between 2 and 4 am every night. I don't know how they do it! Or right, their Turkish coffee and exceptionally strong tea here. Caffeine, caffeine, caffeine is their secret I suppose. 

Goat Kebab Barbecue

This afternoon, we spent time with our new Jordanian friend, who we call Q (it is easier than his Arabic name). His house is just as lovely as Waed's and his family was very inviting also. 

Instead of lamb, though, we had barbecued GOAT. That's right, within 24 hours I have eaten two meats I would have never at home. Do they even sell either of those at our local Stop & Shop? And this goat was fantastic. Wow. It was served on pita bread and a salad and it was so enjoyable! We just sat around and talked and ate - for 3 hours. 3 non-stop hours of eating lots of meat, meat, and more meat. Good thing I liked it! And I am a very picky eater who won't even eat hamburgers back home. Who am I?

After we ate our large meal, we ate a delicious cake with toasted almonds. And since it was Q's birthday yesterday, we celebrated with him and his family. But the candles on the cake were no ordinary candles, they were thick, half a foot-long sparklers. That makes candles seem so lame now. I don't even know if those are legal in the states though...? 

Anyway, we had a great time and it is nice to know local people who are so willing to do anything for you and help you out in any way. It is very comforting.

A Delicious Meal, a Beautiful View, and a Wise Man to Create the Perfect Evening

So yesterday was an awesome day. We started off the day by sleeping in as laste as our hearts desired and did nothing for the rest of the afternoon. As 7 pm approached, we boarded the bus to venture out to my Professor Waed's family's house. It sits on top of a hill called Mother of the Wind because it is the highest point in the city of Irbid and it is very windy, obviously. First off, her house is gorgeous - fancy moldings and furniture, ornate decorations and most importantly, a lovely family to fill it.

Her family welcomed us students into their homes right away and fed us one of the greatest meals we will have on this entire trip. It is Mansaf and it is the national dish of Jordan. It is comprised of lamb, rice, and a cooked yogurt mixed with other things. Now, lamb is not something that is in my diet a lot, if ever. I've only had one experience with it when I was ten years old when I received my First Communion and I have not had it since. I thought I would never eat it again but here I am. And it was magical. I did not put the yogurt on top due to my lactose-intolerance, sadly, but it was yummy nonetheless. They also feed us a proportion larger enough for 5+. There is no holding back here with food. At dinner professor Muhammed's father sat with us and talked to us about his time in Germany. He told us how the Germans are the greatest Europeans (hello that's where I come from) and how when they eat, they clean their plates. And it reminded me perfectly of my family and our "clean plate club"and not letting any food go to waste. It was a nice moment to be reminded of my family in a country that could not be any different from where I come from, but to have a Palestinian/Jordanian man feel so connected with Germany after living there for 20 years, a place where both of my great-grandparents originated from.

After dinner we had another very special experience: we were able to relax and hangout in none other than a UNHCR tent. Yes, that's right, a tent given out by the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees to the Syrian refugees, who sell their extra tents to the average Jordanian for money. So last night, we relaxed and drank tea while sitting on pillows inside a tent. It is a very ironic situation that we could enjoy ourselves so casually and comfortably while many refugees who live in the tents elsewhere are living lives under harsh conditions.

On a side note, the coffee here is only a few drops yet it is the strongest cup you'll ever drink (or that i've had so far in my life). And the tea is also different. They use a different part of the leaf here, the top which is stronger and so the tea tastest different. So I will be bringing some boxes home with me for all you tea lovers to try. They also put mint leaves and sugar in it to flavor it and it is so tasty. Ah!

So after we enjoyed our time inside the tent, we stood outside and looked out over the entire city of Irbid. No one even needed to speak in order to enjoy ourselves. Just being able to witness such an amazing view was enough. We were served watermelon for dessert (they serve fruit for dessert here a lot it seems, crazy right? Who needs sweets when you have fresh, organic watermelon).

However, suddenly we heard gunshots from the street and us students were so startled. Our faces definitely showed our shock, which led to Waed's family explaining that at weddings, people shoot gunshots into the air repeatedly as a way of celebration. It is a very interesting part of their culture, one could say. One part that I don't necessarily want to be around. I think that was the first time I've ever been around a gun shot. Many firsts here in Jordan! So we moved our chairs closer to the wall and away from the open area where Waed's wise father sat down with us and told us about life and the world, telling stories of people who live simple lives with little money and yet are very happy. Or how if we buy one coke here, it hurts someone somewhere else who needs to work to make the goods we want. He said at one point that there is a crime attached to every good we purchase because of the effects it has on those who have to make it. Later he told us how humans are the only species to kill for fun. And how we waste our health to make money, to put towards our health. So why not just focus on the basics of what we need in life to begin with? Food, water, family. He was very inspiring. He finished off the night by reciting a poer my Chaucer in Middle English. As a native English speaker I cannot even do that, and he did it without hesitation. He is a very intelligent and worldly man.

It is safe to say that it was a very memorable night here in Jordan with great friends, family and food. This trip would not be the same if not for my amazing two prfoessors, Waed and Muhammed. 

Today Was A Mess

Here is a list of things that went wrong:

1. They clean the stair cases with water and we basically had to walk through/around a small waterfall to get out the door. My shoes got soaked. 
2. We attempted to make dinner and spilt half a bag of uncooked rice all over the (gas) stove and floor. If it's being cooked anyway we can still eat it right? Yes. Also, it took far longer than it should have to cook and when we finished the outside was overcooked, but the inside was undercooked. We ate it anyway. *A side note: the rice came out sticky. Isn't that some kind of accomplishment?? 
3. We don't have a can opener and so had to resort to using a large knife to hack away at the can. No one was harmed in the process and I wouldn't recommend it unless absolutely necessary. 
4. While doing dishes my roommate Christine broke a bowl. The box said 6, we started with 4, and now we have 3. 
5. Our toilet BROKE. It already flushed when it wanted to, about once a day, and today the handle came clean off. We can't flush our toilet.
6. The people are coming tomorrow at 8 am to fix it. We should probably be up before them and dressed. We don't have class till 1030. 
7. My lunch bag became filled with ants suddenly this evening because I had a small chocolate bar in it. 
8. We got assigned an essay at 930 at night, due tomorrow. *Luckily for us, this was moved to a due date of Sunday, however I had already completed it by the time I received that message. 
9. We went to bed at 4 am, so the lack of sleep is really starting to make us delirious  But it makes us laugh at things that aren't really funny and have a good time either way. 

No matter what, I always remember that life is good and I am thankful every minute that I am here and have this opportunity. These will all be memories soon enough that I can look back at and laugh at.

A Night of Dancing

Last night the ten students and two professors got dressed up because we were going out - and by out I mean we attended a dinner and reception hosted by the administration of JUST. We were told we would be graced with the presence of the President of the university, however someone was sent in his place. No worries, less formalities I had to deal with. I was able to wear my beloved outfit of all black - black dress and black cardigan accented with gold sandals and a gold necklace. This necklace I bought in the other day from a Syrian, which was distinguishable by the goods he was selling - Free Syrian Army bracelets and flags. I loved the necklace and though I don't know for sure who he is or what is affiliation is with Syria, but sometimes I like to think I do my part to help someone out.

We were worried about the chill of the night (yes, that happens here, so why didn't I bring heavier sweaters??) but it ended up being of no concern because of the amount of fun that we were having. To begin, we danced and danced the traditional dance of the region (mainly Jordan, Syria, and Palestine) called the Dabke. It is a repeating set of steps that was not channeling to master personally. But the simple steps I was taking was no where near the effort it requires to do the more exciting Dubke. So everyone holds hands and gets in a circle and you go around and around until the music stops. You move your body with the beat of the music and just feel the rhythm  But in the front of the line were these young men, students at the university, who fly through the air practically. The jump and squat and move in a way I could not imagine myself doing, especially in a long dress or skirt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81SQNZLiOSM

If you watch this link, at around 20 seconds you will see what I am talking about. This is not from last night, just a reference to see how cool this dance is.

We met out language partners last night as well. We will be paired with students at the university in the coming weeks to help us practice our Arabic first hand with other Jordanians our age. It was a great idea on behalf of whoever actually thought of it and I know it will come in handy.

Before we left and after we returned, I ventured out onto the roof of our apartment building. I am on the top floor and so the door to the roof is only up  few stairs. It was a breathtaking view.

The second picture posted is to the north of us. The mountains in the back are the border between Jordan Syria. There is a town on the top of one of the peaks. We are not sure what country it lies in. There is no signal that from where we are that there is conflict just across those mountains. In fact, most of the time it is very quiet where we are. It is just hard to fathom that something so detrimental to a country and a population can lie so close to where I am, yet I wouldn't even know the difference. For my safety, I am glad. But for the intelligent part of my that is craving more knowledge about the crisis, I wish I could learn first hand. But I am in reality and so a news source will have to do.